Client Testimonial
This was our second trip to Rajasthan. The taster had occurred during a previous visit to India when my wife Tissie, our friend Julia and myself had enjoyed a fascinating few days in Jaipur.
Although we had decided upon the places we wished to explore in advance of that previous trip we had no predetermined plans for either modes of transport or accommodation, so our first port of call was the Indian Tourist Office in New Delhi. Here the travelling dots between our chosen destinations were joined and accommodation booked. Thinking that a similar service could still be tapped into I contacted the same Tourist Office again, only to be informed that it no longer provided a hands on tour booking service, but would arrange for a representative of Indian Travel Consultants to telephone me at home in Scotland. I was informed that Indian Travel Consultants are approved by the Government of India’s Ministry of Tourism, and could provide the advice and service I was seeking.
I did not wait long for a response. Once contacted, I explained that my party wished to return to Rajasthan and thus a productive period of dialogue ensued resulting in a very interesting itinerary being pieced together. Importantly it came within budget. Hotels were booked and internal travel arrangements organised; flights from Scotland to India we booked locally. Once satisfied we agreed a 50% payment up front with an understanding that the remainder would be forthcoming upon arrival in New Delhi.
The 1st February and we welcomed the opportunity to wave goodbye to winter for awhile. Late that night and a smooth touchdown on the tarmac at Indira Gandhi International Airport marked our arrival. Any doubts as to the whereabouts of our luggage quickly dissipated once it was thrust from the bowels of the earth onto the baggage reclaim conveyor belt. Further relief permeated our tired minds after we successfully negotiated customs and upon walking into the arrivals lounge spotted a placard inviting us to make ourselves known to its owner.
A representative of Indian Travel Consultants escorted us to what was going to be our main mode of transport for the next three weeks, a Toyota Innova. There was ample room for us and our luggage and more importantly it came with an extremely capable driver whose temperament and skills we would come to admire and value. He drove us to the hotel where we settled the outstanding balance with the representative from Indian Travel Consultants. A heady cocktail of over tiredness and excitement lead to a few hours of restless sleep before being picked up after breakfast..
The journey to Jaipur aroused memories of the many historical sights this city has to offer; the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), the Jantar Mantar (Observatory) and the City Palace complex, all evidence of eighteenth century splendour. The Amber Fort, situated approximately 11 kms away from the city kickstarts the imagination as one tries to picture life as it was 400 years ago. There were other attractions that enticed, but our tour itinerary at that time forbade us as it dictated that we must travel onto Agra. We therefore made an accord, not only to return to Jaipur, but to experience the further delights that we were confident Rajasthan had to offer. Now we were doing just that.
The drive from Delhi to Jaipur reminded us of how hectic the roads are. The word ‘chaos’ springs to mind. The ingredients consist of colourful lorries, bent buses, cars, auto rickshaws and family laden motorcycles all with horns that could destroy a decibel meter. Add pedsestrians, rickshaws and bicycles, then sprinkle in an array of animals such as dogs, pigs, goats, cattle, sheep, camels and the occasional elephant. Mix well and place on a base of pothole pitted road crisscrossed with invisible speedbumps and it would appear to be a recipe for disaster. We find it a source of amazement and never tire of the theatre that travelling on the roads provides. Our self-assured driver eased our concerns; perhaps he didn’t close his eyes as often as we did.
Our stay in Jaipur allowed time to recuperate from our lack of sleep and to make leisurely visits to two hilltop forts that afford panoramic views of Jaipur and its surrounds.
The itinerary included a tour guide for our stay in Jaipur. Other than here we decided to play it by ear and utilise the service of a guide only if we thought it beneficial. Guides have the habit of luring their charges into retail outlets where they gain a commission from the shopkeeper for successful sales. Items tend to be cheaper when no guide is involved.
This tour guide suggested we visit Nahargarh (Tiger Fort) first. The good road curved gently up the hill side and glimpses through the trees provided clues of the views to come. A short distance from the fort the guide bid our driver to stop close to a temple named Charan Mandir which he explained is famous due to foot imprints believed to have been made by Lord Krishna. Upon entering the temple we were introduced to its guardian who kindly showed us the shrine containing Lord Krishna’s legacy and bid us climb the temple tower so that we could enjoy the spectacle of the Jal Mahal (Water Palace) surrounded by the shimmering waters of Man Sagar Lake, truly breathtaking.
A few minutes after our brief sojourn in the temple we arrived at Nahargarh. Although not a large fort it is very imposing due to the sheer rock face that it is built upon. A tour around its stark buildings is memorable, a walk along the battlements is exhilarating due to the amazing views over Jaipur.
By contrast Jaigarh Fort not only provides splendid views over the nearby hills and of the Amber Fort, to which it is connected by passageways, this medieval masterpiece provides its visitors with much more to stimulate the imagination. Never captured, much of the original infrastructure, i.e. reservoirs, a rainwater harvesting system, granaries and a cannon foundry remain intact and is there to be absorbed along with temples, palaces, an armoury and a museum. Perhaps the main attraction is the huge 50 ton Jaivan cannon, a product of the local foundry. Believed to be the largest cannon on wheels in the world it has attracted many myths concerning the amount of times fired and the range of its firepower; whatever the truth it’s a superb example of military might.
Whilst culture feeds the mind during the day it’s time to satisfy the stomach at night. Jaipur has a tremendous variety of eating establishments with an excellent choice of Indian, Chinese and continental dishes. We enjoyed meals at our hotel and at restaurants where performances of the traditional Rajasthani folk dance called Bhavi added to the overall dining experience. Women in colourful costume show off their skill and dexterity by mimicking the day to day chore of transporting water from wells or oases to their homes in urns or pots balanced on their heads. It’s mesmerising to watch as an ever increasing number of pots are placed on the dancer’s head during the performance. It becomes more fascinating when the performer, still balancing the pots, plucks a rupee note from a container on the floor with her teeth and even more compelling when she steps on top of a plate that is itself balanced on a set of brass tumblers. The spectacle is accompanied by melodious song and music produced on such instruments as the harmonium, the pahkwaja and dholak (drums), the sarangi (stringed instrument), and manjeera (cymbals).
A three hour drive took us to our next destination which was Ranthambhore National Park where we hoped to spot the world’s largest feline, the tiger.
Our itinerary included two safaris into the park, the first on the afternoon of our arrival and the second early next morning. There are two types of vehicle used to transport people around the park, a jeep (Maruti Gypsy) and an open bus called a Canter. I had agreed upon a Canter when arranging the trip at home, but it became apparent that a jeep is by far the preferable option. A Canter is much larger, therefore more ponderous and conspicuous and its noisy, simply because it carries more excitable and expectant people. We were willing to pay the additional cost to hire a jeep that consisted of the driver, a guide and six tourists.
We were lucky. The net result of our two excursions consisted of only one sighting, but what an unforgetable experience. It was our first outing and time was running out. We had seen a variety of wildlife; sleepy crocodiles, beautiful chital deer, impressively large nilgai antelope, nimble chinkara gazelles. Langur monkeys, the gymnasts of the park, showed off their agility and Indian treepies fearlessly flew onto the hand of anyone who proffered food, but the star of the show had so far eluded us.
As our guide apologetically announced that it was time to exit the park I glanced over my shoulder and did a double take. Approximately 50 metres away and walking towards us was this awesome animal. The tiger had found us. Initial excitement gave way to exclamations of wonder, then fevered activity as cameras were made ready. It stopped walking, lay down and gave a deliberate yawn that exuded authority. The guide informed that this was an adult male. It is more usual to spot females as their territory is not so extensive. A short time later the tiger rose and continued to walk towards our vehicle. It was only later, over our evening meal, that the girls mentioned that both our guide and driver’s body language had betrayed their unease as this fine specimen approached our low sided open topped jeep. I hadn’t registered their unease as a photograph was my priority. Apparently they relaxed when he veered to the front of our vehicle, crossed the track and disappeared into the long grass. The fast and furious drive back to the park entrance was a blur as the tiger remained vivid in our minds.
The park is dominated by the impressive remains of Ranthambhore Fort. The reward for climbing to the steep summit is stunning views of the surrounding landscape. It was whilst we were driving back to our hotel from the fort that the question of man’s relationship with the park’s wildlife arose. The main track from the fort to the main park entrance is a prime thoroughfare for local people and we drove past frenzied activity as both pedestrians and those who had abandoned their vehicles were pointing excitably at the undergrowth. It was apparent that a tiger was in the near vicinity. This surprised us as we thought that tigers would avoid mainstream human activity. It begged the question of fatal conflict between man and beast and when I posed it to a park expert I was informed that only one fatality had been recorded. A man had lead his donkey into the sanctuary to search for firewood. Unfortunately a tiger viewed his animal as an easy mealticket. The man’s actions had the opposite effect to those intended when the missiles he hurled at the tiger with the purpose of frightening it off angered it instead. Neither he nor his donkey survived.
Our next destination was a complete contrast to the serenity of the wildlife reserve. The village of Pushkar is situated in a valley overlooked by rocky hills that afford dramatic views of the desert. Its sacred lake has been a Hindu pilgrimage site for centuries and its temples and 52 bathing ghats play host to those who wish to cleanse themselves in its holy waters.
Two things become quickly apparent; the religious significance of the lake and the commercialism that coerces pilgrim and tourist alike. Pushkar vibrates and a walk through its narrow streets creates a full scale assault on the recognised five senses. The taste of delicious traditional dishes cooking, the sounds of shopkeepers inviting you to view, the unavoidable touch of others in confined spaces, the multifarious activities to view and the smell of the street add up to a pulsating experience. A sixth sense is rarely required as the horns of the weaving motorcycles warn of their imminent arrival.
The temples and ghats can provide a temporary refuge from the hustle and bustle but not necessarily relief on the purse or wallet. It is usual to be approached by people claiming to be Brahmin priests who attempt to place a flower in your palm and then try to press you into participating in puja (worship) at one of the ghats, for a fee of course. We decided to partake in prayers at the Brahma Ghat as donations here are taken for charitable purposes. Sitting on the steps and guided by our alloted Brahmin priest we asked for our famililies to be blessed and then completed the ritual by scattering our offerings of flowers rice and nuts upon the water of the lake. Prior to the ceremony the priest said that he would ask for no financial recompense for himself. It therefore amused us that upon conclusion he obviously suffered short term memory loss as he did indeed ask for a handout; we politely declined.
After the sacred and profane of Pushkar it was time to drive west and onto Rajasthan’s second largest city, Jodhpur. Our itinerary allowed 3 nights here so we decided to concentrate on the city and its close surrounds.
The first item on the agenda had to be the intimidating Meherangarh Fort which absolutely dominates the city and is still run by the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Impressive at a distance, it sits atop a high hill that rises from the plains and is nothing less than awesome when viewed close up. Dislocating the neck is a distinct possibility when staring up at the stronghold which is 36 metres high in places.
The fort represented the first occasion in India when we participated in an audio tour. This proved to be an excellent decision as it professionally delivered a combination of general information, historical perspective and authoritative anecdotes. From the moment we walked past the high cannon pocked walls to the time we handed the audio equipment back, an hour and a half later, we had been totally immersed in another age.
After refreshments and reflection we ambled along the battlements where a fine assortment of cannon point to various parts of the city. The sunshine readily picked out the blue houses for which Jodhpur is renowned. Certain chemicals are added to the usual white lime to counteract the threat of termites and the resulting colour from the mix is blue.
A couple of minutes drive downhill from the fort brought us to Jaswant Thada, a traditional cremation ground for Jodhpur rulers. Situated in delightful gardens, with a small lake nearby, are white marble memorials to various rulers of Marwar since the late 19th century. After a pleasant hour of admiration for the architecture, so fine in parts that the marble is translucent, it was time for lunch.
Our afternoon excursion was to the Umaid Bhawan Palace, built between 1929 and 1943. Generally speaking this grand sandstone and marble modern palace can be divided into three. There is the palace museum, open to the public, the hotel, open to the public for those that can afford it and the royal residency, presumably open to the public only by royal invite. Well worth a visit, but perhaps of particular interest to devotees of Art Deco.
Next morning we ate a hearty breakfast so that we would be in fine fettle for the hard bargaining that we knew was to come. Our objective was to purchase fabrics for use as duvet covers and curtains and thus a visit to the narrow lanes that constitute Girdikot and Sardar Markets in the old town was the plan. Here handicrafts aplenty await shoppers and two hours later our objective had been achieved. Treated to a display of vivid multicoloured materials the variety was mind-bending, but eventually we succumbed and our choices were finally negotiated. As usual, elation is tempered with the feeling that the price paid reflects blunt bargaining skills that need to be sharpened before the next shopping spree.
After market madness we sought tranquility by driving to Bal Samand Lake, the oldest artificial lake in Rajasthan which was constructed in the 12th century. Though only 5 km away the sounds of the city are left far behind. Near the lake is a 17th century red sand stone palace that has undergone a restoration programme and is now a world class hotel complete with magnificient grounds, swimming pool and health spa.
Upon arrival we were greeted by a hotel manager who offered to show us around. We accepted and he introduced us to pure, unadulterated luxury. As we drove away we could only dream of the hedonistic happiness that this opulent pleasure palace showers upon its guests.
To maintain our peaceful theme we asked our driver to take us to the Mandore Gardens, a short journey from Bal Samand Lake. Mandore used to be the capital city of Marwar state before Jodhpur rose to prominence. The gardens, overlooked by a ruined fort and palace, contain cenotaphs to maharajas, temples and a Hall of Heroes, rock carvings that depict various mythological heroes and gods.
The area now constitutes a public park that is frequented by local people who come, particularly at the weekend, to relax and to feed the large population of langur monkeys who boldly take titbits proffered to them. We shared a delightful time with families and it was great fun intermingling for the assortment of photographs that recorded the joyous occasion. I certainly made a musician happy. He was playing an agappai kinnari which is a primative type of stringed instrument constructed of a bamboo stem that forms the finger board, half a coconut shell covered in animal hide and some strings, one of which is horsehair. I inadvertainly rewarded him with a hundred rupee note instead of the usual ten that I pay for photographic portraits. It was his broad smile accompanied by a hop, skip and jump that alerted me to my mistake.
From Jodhpur we headed south towards Mount Abu, but broke the journey with an overnight stay at the village of Ranakpur. A very pleasant afternoon was spent relaxing on the hotel’s green lawns and even though the swimmimg pool was as alluring as a cold beer on a hot day the dip in it was short lived due to the teeth chattering temperature of its water.
The main reason for our overnight stay was the Jain temple complex at Ranakpur. Considered to be one of five holy Jain sites it is situated in beautiful countryside that plays home to numerous birds and other wildlife. Although there are a number of buildings here the showpiece is the marble Adinatha Temple with its 1,444 pillars, no two the same and its magnificent carved ceiling, arches and figures. The other structures are worthy of attention and I’m sure that many a visitor has scoured the exterior of the Parsvanatha Temple for the examples of erotica so intriguely incorporated into the overall design.
Mount Abu itself is basically a rocky plateau 22 km long and 9 km wide. The town of Mount Abu sits at a height of 1,220 metres above sea level and is the only hill station in Rajasthan. The road from the plains curls upwards through the wonderful wooded countryside. The views are terrific, the journey terrifying. Overtaking on hair pin bends is a national pastime and bus drivers in particular obviously think that the vehicle’s horn excuses the mind blowing manoeuvres executed on this mountain road. Signing the hotel register was a challenge as our hands were still trembling.
For centuries Mount Abu has been a retreat for those wanting to escape the heat of the desert. Nowadays it attracts people belonging to the various branches of tourism whether it be leisure, eco or adventure. The exuberant family enjoying a pedalo ride on Nakki Lake encouraged by booming music that resounds across the water after bouncing off the surrounding hills contrasts markedly with those seeking the rich bio diversity that the countryside has to offer.
Both the Dilwara and Adhar Devi temples attract pilgrims and they certainly attracted us. The Dilwara Jain temple complex epitomises the stonemason’s art at its jaw dropping best. Surrounded by wooded hills and fine specimens of mango trees the five unique marble temples, constructed between the early 11th and late 16th centuries, are enclosed by a high white wall. I thought nothing would surpass my first breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal, another stupendous study in marble, but upon entering the oldest temple, Vimal Vasahi I had to remember to breathe after my first sight of the intricate decoration blew me away. Doorways, arches, pillars and domed ceilings, all are elaborately carved with lotus buds, petals and flowers, Jain religious teachers (Tirthankars), various deities, and mythological scenes. It is difficult to comprehend that many of the substantial areas of these delicate ornamental wonders are carved from single blocks of marble. Initially I had been disappointed to learn that photography is forbidden, but that disappointment quickly subsided upon entering this national treasure and the pictures imprinted upon my mind’s memory card will never be erased.
Access to the Adhar Devi temple is by 365 steps hewn into the mountainside so the word breathtaking is used in a different context here, though sure enough, the views across the hills from the temple entrance are well worth the toil. There is no lack of liquid refreshment as eager vendors line the route to the top.The temple itself is dedicated to the Hindu deity Durga and is built inside a cave. It is advisable to ensure full recovery from the ascent before navigating the low narrow entrance to the shrine if a bump on the head is to be avoided. A Brahmin priest will provide a blessing, with the expectation of a financial contribution to the temple’s upkeep.
A short journey to the east of Mount Abu lies the city of Udaipur, our final destination before travelling home. Also known as the ‘City of Lakes’ and often referred to as the ‘Venice of the East’ its artificial lakes interconnected by waterways add immensly to the overall charm that pervades this historical city. Visiting in February, it is difficult to believe that the lakes can completely evaporate during the hot summer months.
Udaipur offers a warm welcome and a rich culture to assimilate.
The old city is sited by Lake Pichola where bathing ghats are interspersed between the assortment of buildings that touch the water’s edge. It is usual to see women washing their garments at the ghats and the sound of pummelled clothing reverberating around the lakeside is frequently heard. It was the Hindu ‘wedding season’ and some of the ghats radiated brilliant colours as they were submerged under a sea of sartorial elegance as women attended a wedding ceremony.
Road and pedestrian bridges connect land bisected by waterways, though with regard to the latter the crossing can be rather circuitous as cattle do like to lie down wherever, without any consideration whatsoever.
Our hotel, situated in the Jagdish Mandir area of the old city, offered tremendous views over Lake Pichola from its rooftop restaurant. At breakfast time the early morning sun magically tinted the lake with colourful building’s reflections and at evening meal time the disappearing sun set the sky alight as it bade farewell to another fantastic day.
A brief walk from our hotel took us to to the elaborate City Palace which is actually a series of marble and granite palaces constructed over a period of 300 years. The impressive end product is a conglomeration of Rajasthani, Mughal, European, medieval and Chinese architecture and located within are museums, an armoury and a variety of interesting historical artifacts. Fine examples of wall murals, silver work, mirror work and coloured glass are all to be found.
Near to the City Palace is the largest temple in Udaipur, Jagdish Mandir. A flight of 32 steps compared favourably with the 365 of the Adhar Devi temple in Mount Abu so we were more than happy to climb past two welcoming stone elephants and be impressed by this three storey structure with its 79 foot spire magnificantly decorated with sculptures of musicians, horsemen, dancers and elephants. Less welcoming, yet very imposing, is the large brass idol of Garuda, a mythical half man half eagle that appears to be guarding the main shrine where more fine carvings are discovered. The temple attracted a variety of peopIe who pleaded for alms and I made a mental note of the colourful sadhus, who for a monetary gift, would willingly pose for photographic portraits.
Situated at Gangori Ghat on Lake Pichola’s waterfront the Bagore ki Haveli is a must to see. Built as a palace in the 18th century by a former Prime Minister of Mewar, passing into the hands of the Mewari royal family upon his death and then onto the Government of Rajasthan after India’s Independence the building was eventually handed over to the West Zone Cultural Centre in 1986. The West Zone Cultural Centre oversaw renovations that restored the building to past glory and successfully created a superb museum of Mewar’s noble culture.
Admiral architecture aside, the re-creation of the private quarters of the royal ladies, complete with day to day necessities and fine frescoes, is very tastefully achieved and gives a wonderful insight into a byegone era. Two peacocks fashioned from coloured glass mosaics are an example of the amazing craftsmanship on show and there is a delightful exhibition of dolls wearing strikingly vivid national costume. We allowed ourselves a guide who ably brought the palace to life and we were not surprised to learn later that this gentleman had been awarded the annual Rajasthani ‘Best Guide’ award on more than one occasion.
At night one of the Bagore ki Haveli’s courtyards is used as a venue for traditional dance, music and puppetry. The audience is enthralled. During the Bhavi dance the female dancer balances up to ten pots on her head and grates her bare feet upon broken glass during the process. The Chari dance is performed by two women whose graceful movement creates blazing patterns as flames rise from the burning cottonseeds placed in the pots balanced on their heads. The puppeteer adds humour to the proceedings when he manipulates his marionette so that it juggles its head upon the heels of its feet. It is an excellent hour of entertainment before an evening meal.
It is impossible to ignore the shops. Many of the narrow streets are lined with businesses and every excursion from the hotel means running the gauntlet of shopkeepers who try to entice you with whatever products they are trying to sell. Whether looking for souvenirs for friends, decorations for the house or more personal items Udaipur is a feast for the eyes. Be it silk tops for Tissie, jewellery for Julia or minature paintings for myself we all tried our hands at bargaining, we all made purchases and afterwards we were all curious as to how much of a bargain we had actually bought. Whatever the reality of the situation we couldn’t complain about the service. Tissie had a beautiful silk top tailor made for her. Once the material and design was chosen and the price agreed, her measurements were taken at lunchtime, she returned for a fitting the following morning and that afternoon she collected the finished article which fitted perfectly and looked stunning.
Then there are the lakes themselves. There are two lakes in the immediate vacinity of the city. Just north of Lake Pichola is Fateh Sagar Lake. Although it has a certain charm we did not find it as inspiring as Lake Pichola.
Where there is water there is invariably boat trips and Udaipur is no exception. Fateh Sagar Lake has three small islands to visit, but we decided to concentrate on Lake Pichola where there are a couple of excursions available. The first is a short trip from the Bansi Ghat jetty to the Lake Palace on the island of Jag Niwas. Formerly an 18th century royal abode this creation of pure opulence appears to float on the lake’s surface and the reflection of its white marble walls gives the illusion that this must be home to the gods. Nowadays it is a luxury hotel so for non-residents a boat ride is only forthcoming if a lunch or dinner is purchased at the hotel.
We decided upon the second option which is to take the boat ride from Bansi Ghat jetty towards the Bagore ki Haveli where it effects a u-turn and skirts around the Lake Palace before heading towards another island upon which the Jag Mandir Palace stands. Passengers are allowed to disembark here to view the marble and yellow sandstone palace and as with many other structures that we have been privileged to see this captivates the mind. As passenger boats regularly pull in here there is time to absorb the different facets of the palace before heading back to the entry pavilion where the landing jetty is located and catching the next boat back to the mainland.
There was one more palace to visit. Originally called the Sjjangarh Palace and now known as the Monsoon Palace this late 19th century building holds little attraction other than the views from its location. Situated high in the nearby Aravalli Hills it was built initially as an astronomical centre and as a viewpoint from which to monitor monsoon clouds (hence its name). Although it appears very impressive when viewed from the distant city, it is unfortunately, rather dilapidated. It is the magnificient panoramic views of the city and its lakes from the palace that makes a visit worthwhile. The evening light illuminates the ethereal Lake Palace, it fades, then the patient among us pray for the blast of a red sunset over the hills before daylight is extinguished altogether.
The sun had set on our second incredible visit to Rajasthan. Our driver delivered us to the ultra modern Dabok Airport, 25 kms east of Udaipur City. Here we bade him a fond farewell and caught a flight to Indira Gandhi International Airport. We are captivated by India’s diverse culture and we killed time before flying home by reflecting on the fantastic three weeks we had just enjoyed and by deliberating upon our next trip to India, for a next time there will certainly be.
Where to go? Back to Rajasthan perhaps, as there is still much to see, or maybe explore an area that we have never toured before. One thing for sure; we agreed that Indian Travel Consultants would be a major player as it had certainly facilitated the organisational process for this superb trip.
